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Draft: Hand Tools:

1) Hog rings and pliers. Used in mattress and car seat manufacture. Pneumatic and hand plier models. The pneumatic type is about as fast as a carpenter's nail gun. Hog rings are a "C" shaped piece of steel which squeezes into a small "o" and replaces a wire tie. Quality hog ring pliers and hog rings are purchased at wholesale upholstery suppliers. The hog ring pliers were heated and bent to the shape in the picture. The one without orange plastic is the best of the two shown.

If you ever see a metal shear like the one far left, buy it. The one shown is in very used condition. It can still cut thin paper as good as any scissors. The one half inch rebar bent into an "L" with two nubs of 3/8 inch bar welded on is used to bend "Z" shapes into 6X6 welded wire. The "Z" shapes adjust flat squares so the wire can follow fairly complex curves.





The pneumatic hog ring gun is so economical with air that it is quite practical to use a small regulator as shown, and compressed air or nitrogen in bottles from a welding supply store. The pneumatic hog ring gun makes quality attachment of the fine mesh into a quick job. Compressed air in bottles allows use of the hog ring gun at sites without electricity and also keeps the job quiet. Be sure to remove any hog rings that miss but are attached and hanging from the fine outer mesh (they are a problem when finishing the plaster).

Draft: Stanchions (support posts):

1) The idea is to use square steel tubing stock sized such that one size slides inside a larger size. Steel tubing, is manufactured with inside measurements greater than the outside measurement of the next size down, in many sizes.

Example tubing sizes: Inside (min) 2.54 cm (1") x .3175 cm(1/8") wall, or, 3.175 cm(1.25") x .159cm(1/16") wall Outside (min) 3.175 cm(1.25") x .159cm(1/16") wall

2) The inside piece, two or three meters, slides upward from the outer piece (also two or three meters). Holes are positioned so that this easily manufactured stanchion can be extended and pinned through both pieces to create an adjustable support post. Leave one meter inside (at full extension) for the tall sizes (above four meters),and a minimum of 1/2 meter for shorter sizes (less than three meters).

3) The top of the inner piece is cut at about a 45 degree angle. A stub of #3 (.95cm) rebar is welded to the high side point and used to penetrate receiver holes in temporary support rafters. Other top adapters are used for other receivers.

4) The bottom is a screw jack made from threaded stock which just fits into the outer part of the stanchion. These pieces should be cut from a long, standard product. One third meter is about right. Weld a six to eight sided foot on the bottom.

5) Put the screw jack in the stanchion. Screw upward with a standard bolt and washer.

Draft: Scott's Trick: Bottom fine mesh steel: Plane Areas: Ceiling:

1) 6x6, or "6,6,10,10" = 10 gauge wire, usually triple tensile strength of common reinforcing steel, welded on 15cm squares. Shipped in rolls or flats. Rolls are more available locally but are a not as nice to work with. For large jobs, a flattening roller for the welded wire roles is a good idea. This is a finish work, quality control point. Wire can always be made just right with enough labor.

Always cut sharp extra tails from welded wire panels.

2) Layout a welded wire panel on the ground. Size it to fit fit where it will eventually go on the ceiling. Overlap welded wire joints 30cm (two squares). Keep back from detail areas.Finish detail areas to this area.

3) Lay fine wire mesh on top of welded wire. Overlap 1.25cm (1/2") minimum. Too much overlap is a problem. Hog ring the fine mesh down to the welded wire.

4) When panel is complete, lift it to ceiling. Hog ring to inside layer of structural welded wire. Work from center outward. Complete the center before moving on. The finest mesh is above and supported by the now innermost layer of welded wire (the 6x6).

5) The supporting welded wire must also be hand wired all the way through on, say, a one meter grid. One hog ring in the middle of each 6x6 square is a final touch for the most demanding finish work.